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Maintenance of Your Plumbing System to Prevent the Need for Repairs

If you’re a homeowner who would rather maintain your plumbing system than deal with the big repairs that will come with neglect, you’ll need to know some tips to do that. In this article we’ll go over some common ways to prevent possible issues you will face with your plumbing system.

Care of sanitary appliances

Everyone knows that all plumbing devices require not only proper and careful treatment but also proper care.

To begin the story about leaving, it follows first of all with a bathroom (a bathroom and a toilet). Plumbing fixtures installed there must always be kept clean.

Enameled bath will last much longer if you avoid sudden changes in the temperature of the water supplied to it (when filling the bath, first you need to start warm water, gradually bringing it to the desired temperature). Otherwise, the enamel coating will quickly crack, yellow and erase.

After each use, the bath should be washed with warm water using appropriate detergents.

In no case can you clean the baths and sinks, covered with enamel, with agents that contain acid. The use of metal brushes is also inappropriate.

The toilet must be kept clean since it is in it that a huge number of pathogens develop. Take the rule to clean the toilet after 3-5 days. If it is so dirty that conventional means do not help, you can use a 5% solution of hydrochloric acid. Often, hydrochloric acid can not be used!

Means intended for cleaning and disinfection are liquid, pasty, and powdery. There are general rules when using them. When working with them, you must wear rubber gloves to protect your hands. Keep these products in a tightly closed container (especially pasty) in a dry place.

Often in the process of using plumbing fixtures, it is necessary to deal with rust. Currently, the industry produces a large number of various effective cleaning products.

Preparations such as “Tartaran”, “Kama”, “Comet” and other cleaning powders well remove rust. They are applied as follows. On a damp sponge, you need to sprinkle a small amount of powder and, moistening the previously contaminated surface, wipe it with a sponge. Then it is necessary to wash the treated plumbing fixture with clean running water.

Do not use for baths and shells drugs that are both clean and remove rust, because they contain hydrochloric acid, destroying the enamel.

Elimination of unpleasant odors


There are several reasons for unpleasant odors in the kitchen or bathroom. This damage the joint of sewer pipes, the lack of water in the water locks, the obstruction of sewerage, as well as the poorly adjusted revision of the sewer risers.

The lack of water in the hydraulic seal can be caused by the evaporation of water or the disruption of the water seal. Evaporation occurs when a plumbing device is not used for a long time. Before a long absence from home in the hydraulic locks, you need to pour a small amount of engine oil.

When disconnecting the water seal, water is sucked into the riser. Failure is possible for large lengths and slopes of the leaks. The emergence of squelching sounds in the water locks, as a rule, indicates that a breakdown is likely.

Also, the failure of the water seal can occur due to a violation of the ventilation of the sewage network. It can occur when the riser is frozen in winter, when foreign objects enter the network (for example, from a roof), and also with a small diameter of the riser.

Unpleasant smells can also appear due to defects in siphons. The most common of these is a truncated septum. To get rid of smells, in this case, will help only a complete replacement of the siphon.

 

Clearing blockages


Clog may occur in any plumbing equipment, but if this happened with a toilet, this is a real disaster for the residents of the house. The situation is further complicated by the fact that with a litter of the toilet it is very difficult to determine exactly where it happened: maybe in the toilet located in your apartment, or maybe in your stretch to the riser or in the riser by several floors below.

If the congestion is formed in the riser, fecal water can flow from your toilet bowl. It usually takes a long time to clean the riser.

If there was a blockage, first of all, it is necessary to use the plunger. It should be brought to the outlet and quickly pressed onto the handle. This will push the water under pressure through the siphon body and the discharge pipe. But the plunger may not help in eliminating the congestion.

Then you can try using a flexible cable. In this case, one hand should push the cable into the hole, and the other at the same time rotate the handle.

As soon as the water starts to leave more slowly, it is necessary to start the cleaning of siphons and pipes urgently. Bathtub siphons are not equipped with settling filters, so you can clean the siphon by disassembling it. It is not convenient and besides, it is not always possible. In this case, it is necessary to use the plunger, but you need to close the overflow hole with a hand.

If the siphon of the kitchen sink is clogged, the cleaning should be carried out as quickly as possible, since the fat and food particles will instantly turn a small cork into a large one.

Cleaning the sink and washing, usually, use the “tap-drain” method. On the faucet mixer, you need to put one end of the hose, and the other to insert into the drain. Then you have to start hot water.

Clogs formed in bottle plastic, bottle brass and chrome-plated siphons, in no case cannot be cleaned with a cable. If the plunger is useless, you need to turn off the clarifiers or, at the very least, wash the siphons with the hot water removed from the sump (but not with boiling water, as there are temperature limits for polyvinyl chloride siphons) by pushing a bucket from the bottom. You can add detergent to the water. It will dissolve the accumulated fat. To eliminate the buildup in cast iron and steel siphons, you can use a solution of caustic soda (1 tablespoon of soda per liter of hot water). But caution should be exercised, as a caustic soda that can cause a chemical burn.

A good tool for splitting fats and layers is calcined soda. A solution of it is prepared in the same way as with caustic soda.

 

To prevent the pipes from freezing


Frozen pipes may break due to the pressure of the ice that has accumulated inside them. The easiest way to prevent the formation of ice is to open the faucet in very cold frosts. But in a private house or in a cottage, the tap is not open for a long time, so you should take care of the water supply in advance.

Protect open pipes can be mineral wool, straw, shavings and some other heaters. For more details on the materials used to insulate the pipes, see the chapter “Materials Required for Piping”.

However, the best way to protect the pipes from freezing is to completely drain water from the water pipe.

But what to do if the pipes are still frozen? You can try to start raising the temperature in the room. As a result, the water did not pour from the tap, use a flattering effect.

For example, you can use a blowtorch, gently warming it with a pipe, or install electric tiles in frozen areas.

But remember: you cannot start a sharp heating of the pipe from the middle of a frozen place. First, you need to open the tap, then slowly warm the pipe, moving from the tap to the highway.

If you did not comply with these simple rules and the pipe still burst, it can be temporarily (until replaced by a new section of the pipe) to be repaired with a rubber bandage, which must be secured with a steel yoke.

 

Protection of pipes against corrosion


Metal pipes during operation are susceptible to rust (both inside and outside). As a result of corrosion, the throughput of pipes decreases, clogs, fistulas, joints, water leakage occurs, in general, the service life of pipelines is significantly reduced.

Naturally, corrosion is easier to prevent than fight it. There are various ways for this.

Methods of protecting metal pipes from rust are divided into passive, and active. Passive – is the insulation of pipes inside and outside or their coating with special shells, active – electrical protection. Pipes produced in factories usually do not have an anticorrosion coating. Therefore, protection against rust should be carried out before laying or during the laying of pipes. As an external insulation for steel pipes, bitumen-polymer, bitumen-mineral, ethylene and similar coatings are used, the choice of which depends on the soil.

Coatings of cement are used for internal protection of steel and cast-iron pipes. They are reliable and economical. Also, cast iron pipes are covered with oil bitumen or a layer of whitened cast iron of increased strength.

Widely used paintwork. They are easily applied to the surface and have a low cost.

If the pipes already have rust, then before they are laid, it must be cleaned and only then apply a protective coating. When it is dry, the pipes are oiled and painted with oil paint.

The electrochemical method of corrosion protection is zinc coating, which significantly slows down the destruction of steel pipes.